1973 Chevrolet K5 Blazer Frame Off Rebuild

Documentation
Here is my Part number/Source list page
This is not a perfect list. It's missing some things, but eventually it will all be there
Check out the master price list:
This is my price document. It's not perfect, but gets the overall picture of things.
Keep in mind, this is just "thus far" pricing!
Check out some wiring diagrams :
Some Catia wiring models, and if you can't read Catia models, there's a jpg for every model.

23Aug2009:
It's Been a long while since I updated. So I procured the RamJet 350 crate engine, installed that. Installed the serpentine kit. The wiring is complete. Installed the starter, alternator and various other engine components.Throttle cable installed, need to do exhaust yet, and driveshafts. I really hope to have it done by this fall, she's close!

05Sep2006:
Wiring is still underway. It's alot of work. 1 circuit at a time. Lots of little details to work out. Relay seal numbers, bases, differnent packard connectors. My Electrical engineering buddy accused me of starting a packard museum, I have a whole 24 bin organizer with different packard connectors. I think I bough the rest of the countrys avails stock on a couple of them, like the "PC Bow" connector that mates to the Printed Circuit on the back of the Gauge Pod. Anyhow, I've got about half the circuits completed. Alot of them depend on others, so I estimate by CHristmas I should have this wiring done. I've got my bumpers coming, so I can complete the wiring in the back of course. It's slow, but going. I've got a nice new OEM type mirror with compass, Homelink, outside temp and maplights, that took me 3 days to wire into the plan. Stereo is mostly wired. I've got to do the alarm functions on it still. (Stereo sounds sweeeeet!) Slow....but sure....

02Feb2006:
The budget is completely blown away. Everything little piece I install is brand new, GM if I can get it.
I'm in the middle of wiring. I chosen to wire from scrach as opposed to using a stock kit, or a Painless kit, as these kits just don't allow for the kind of extras that I have planned and don't include alot extra harneses anyway, like the AC clutch, heater, some of the engine sensors..etc. Anyhow, for this job I've been consulting with a good friend of mine who's an Electrical Engineer. For the wiring task we choose to use switchable circuit breakers in place of fuses. I've purchased all SXL grade automotive wire, rated to 125C. SXL wire is what's called a crosslink wire. Also available in crosslink, is GXL and TXL, just a little thinner wall, the OEMS use these for stuffing many wires in the same place, like say a 50pin computer connector. Anyhow, alot of people don't realize that there's a huge difference in qualities of various wire. The stuff you find at the auto parts store, frankly, is crap. It is not even GPT rated. Look at the difference here. For that test I placed a length of SXL (the yellow) and a length of some "Primary wire" I purchased at Napa a few years ago right in front of my 55,000BTU reddy heater. The primary wire was in flames within 3 seconds and the insulation gone within 5. The SXL wire I removed after 30seconds, a little discoloration, but still flexible and the insulation remained in tact and did not reveal any of the wire it was protecting. Also purchased, were high quality terminals and connectors. Butt connectors, ring terminals and such. I choose solder ring heat shrink terminals. These have a pre-measured amount of solder already encased in the heat schrink, place your wire in it, put in front of a heat gun, the heat shrink tubing shrinks to seal around the connector and the wire and the solder inside melts. A perfect sealed connection. I purcahsed all this stuff at DelCity, there's other places you can buy too, but DelCity had the most reasonable prices the an individual could buy and in smaller amounts. (ie DelCity lets you buy minimum 100' of wire, some other places were minimum 250' ofr wire) So the wiring has commenced.

Update: 19May2005:
Well it seems I'm getting out of control. Every single part I put on this thing during assembly is GM new if I can help it, otherwise it's new from a 3rd party, or if it's not offered anywhere, I take my sweet old time and carefully and painstakingly refurbish it myself (sandblast, tap, re-thread, clean,prime,paint etc). I starting pulling my old crap off the shelf for installation and just coulnd't bear to bolt on rusty old 250K mi stuff. Cost is going high because of all the new GM parts I never really orginally planned on putting on. Back in 1998 when I started I had little means to do such things, the plan really was put a glass body on and a new engine. Well, during the project, I found that after at least 250K mi (could be more, I think it may have been 350k), everything was showing signs of wear. Stupid things like clutch cross shaft seals, armrests, turn signal cancel cam, door panel seals, rear window tracks, even just fasteners. Well I was smart enough there, before I started I went to Quality Farm & Fleet and bought $300 worth of grade 8 & 5 bolts/nuts/washers, every size, and a nice organizer bin thingy. That was one of the smartest things I've done, it's very nice having every length bolt in 8 different diameters and thier proper washers and nuts, no more hunting, tapping, cleaning, etc. Just pick and install. Anyway, sometimes I sit back and think I spend way to much on stupid crap like $38 for clutch rod boots, and $8 for GM window regulator rollers. No one part is ever that expensive, but it adds up, quick. But the way I see it, when finished, every single part/fastner will be brand spaking new or like new, so in theory, everything should be perfect and operate perfectly, be sealed perfectly, look decent, etc, etc. In theory, anyway........